Butterick 8564

Where have all the bloused-back dresses gone? Butterick 8564 is a bloused-back sheath, and dates from the late 1950s. It's a step-in sheath which is molded and buttoned in front; "the back is generously bloused and has twin kick pleats for walking ease." View A offers three-quarter sleeves and a back bow; View B is belted, has short sleeves, and a front neckline bow; View C is sleeveless with a back bow.

I like View A the best, I think, though I'd omit the back bow *on me.* I like the neckline and the practical sleeve length. But I really like Lady B's hair and Lady C's hair. Cropped! (Check the aging on the envelope!)

This pattern looks like it would be fun to construct. The back and front are just in two enormous pattern pieces. Then there's the sleeve, the bow, the collar, and a facing, plus a piece for the skirt back (to get that kick pleat).

My detective work reveals that my grandmother made View C. All the pieces are there except for the View A & C collar, and she did not cut out the pieces for Views A or B (sleeves, belt). It is such a sweet, simple pleasure to carefully examine the pieces of a pattern that have been untouched for fifty years! Living in Charleston, I'm sure that the sleeveless dress had more appeal! I too prefer the belted version (likely more slimming on many figures). I wonder what fabric she used, and where she wore the dress. Would a woman wear a sleeveless dress to work in the late 1950s? Maybe with a cardigan? Perhaps she made it as a housedress--I think the pattern could be dressed up or down, depending on the material used. In a silk it would be nice for church or a wedding. In cotton it could be a housedress or casual dress. Fabric makes such a difference! (One reason I can't order fabric online--I need to feel it and see how it drapes.)

The first time I glanced at this pattern I was not too impressed by it. But as I studied it--particularly View A--it grew on me. I love the vertical lines, the kick pleat back, the collar. I also love that it is a 'step-in' sheath. Quick and practical to pull on and wear! And the fact that it has a bloused back is an absolute plus if you've got scoliosis!

I want mine in a very fine, lightweight wool, for winter. Please.